Trekking for four days to Machu Picchu with a group of strangers was one of the highlights of my travelling days in South America. Every time I go for a walk in the Andalucian mountains I think back to the hike I did to get to one of the marvels of the world. Here's the 6th excerpt from my book. It's on the final day of the battering trek when we reach the famous Huayna Picchu mound and I realise I've got altitude sickness.
|Didn't see any Lamas on my trip!|
Photo by neilspicys
Getting up at 4am was a
struggle, especially after a few beers. I felt knackered, dizzy, and sick. I
put it down to the early start and lack of sleep and tried to shrug it off.
Machu Picchu waited.
Chaos formed on the
final walk; at least two hundred trekkers rushed to arrive at the Sun Gate for
sun rise and see Machu Picchu light up. It was still dark, so we were hoping
for a clear day, but when we arrived at the Sun Gate thick cloud blocked what
was supposed to be one of the best views. It wasn’t to be.
As we ploughed on,
a long trail of tired trekkers followed behind. As we approached the ruins, the
cloud started to lift and a familiar mound Huayna
Picchu - or young peak in Quechua – stood in the distance. I felt relieved
I turned and smiled
at Andre, who grinned back. Victor and Carla noticed we’d arrived. Everyone was
“Look at that,” I
said as we stood on a ledge over the ruins. “We’ve made it.” Machu Picchu stood
in full glory, and we’d even beaten the French.
The four of us
posed for photos with Harry, he’d done well for a little guy, and I thought
back to my auntie.
The site was
massive and there was so much to see. Huayna Picchu, the dark mound in the
centre, was hypnotic, especially with the wispy clouds racing round. I stood
staring for some time before Javi gave us a guided tour. He explained that the
site divided into three main parts, the Priest and Noble District, for priests
and royalty, the Popular District for the lower class people, and the Sacred
District dedicated to the Sun God. The three parts were separated into
different sections of terraced ruins sitting on the grassy floor. We followed
Javi round, stopping to look out over the valley or at other sections of the
Then my climax came
to a sharp end. I started to feel faint. Javi was doing an excellent job, but
my attention span was fading along with my vision. My back started to ache and
I felt spaced out. My body was rebelling against the overnight journeys, lack
of sleep, and late night drinking sessions.
I forced myself
through Javi’s two hour guided tour, but by the end I felt totally drained.
Most of the group were knackered too, and everyone, even the French, declined
the option of walking up Huayna Picchu. It was an anticlimax after such a long
trip, but our bodies couldn’t take anymore. We just wanted food and to get back
to Cusco. It wasn’t going to be that easy though.
We caught a bus
down to Aguascalientes; a Machu Picchu souvenir town appropriately named for
its natural hot springs, and were in a restaurant when Javi dropped the bad
“Sorry to stop your
fun guys,” he said, “but we have a bit of a problem.”
“What, no meat?”
“No, worse,” said
Javi. “There has been a landslide and the train track going back to Cusco is
blocked. We have to wait until the morning. Go and find some accommodation
before the other trekkers find out.” Mutters and moans followed as everyone
disappeared. I stayed with Javi. My vision became blurred and my back ached
more I sat with my head in my hands.
“I think you may
have altitude sickness,” said Javi.
“Yeah, don’t worry.
You just need food, water, and a good sleep. No beer. You’ll be okay tomorrow.”
I felt terrible.
“You missed a big night,” said
Ted as we waited for the train back to Cusco the next morning.
“I thought as much,
I was out of it though, I slept for almost fifteen hours.” I’d missed the final
party in the bars in Aguascalientes, but I was revitalised.
Back in Cusco we
all said our goodbyes, (apart from the French), swapped emails (even Ted and
Borne did, apparently they’d been seen sharing a pint), and I thanked Javi for
the excellent tour.
“It was a
pleasure,” he said as we hugged. “Take it easy next time, not so much beer, you
I considered seeing
more of Peru, but anything after Machu Picchu would have been an anticlimax.
The trek had been an adventure and my confidence had grown. Seeing where the
Incas had lived had been interesting, but the highlight had been hiking with
people from all around the world.
The trek had taken one more day than I’d
expected, so I needed to cut back somewhere. I had to get a move on. That
evening I jumped on a bus heading for Lake Titicaca.
If you like this excerpt then check out my book page for more excerpts and details on how you can get a copy of Teaching English in a Foreign Land, which had over 300 downloads last month on amazon.co.uk.
Labels: book excerpts, machu picchu, peru, teaching English in a foreign land, travel experiences, travel writing, trekking to machu picchu